Sewing-machine.



/ finesse-s,-

L. B. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.23,1911.

Patented June 9, 1914.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED 11116.23. 1911. 1,099,326. Patented June 9.1914.

'7 SHEETS SHEBT 2.

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION TILED AUG.23, 1911.

1,099,326, Patented June 9, 1914.

7 BHBETSSHEET 3.

164211251968: [liven/ton;

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.23,1911.

Patented June 9, 1914.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG.23,1911.

Patented June 9, 1914.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATION FILED AUG.23, 1911.

1,099,326, Patented June 9,1914.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

L. E. TOPHAM.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 23,

A1 2 w m .0 u w m m F J M d a 6 w H .a m J 3 am 0 4 9 liwen/toi tard or arrest tits UNITED; scr'nrns PATENT onrion Lmmmrcn E. rennin, or nnvnnnr, massacnusnrrs, assxenomro unrrnn snor. mommy commmr; or ra'rnnson, NEW JERSEY, A. contonarron or NEW JERSEY.

' Patented'Juue9,1914.

Application filed. August 2:, i911. f-smn No. 645,591.

' Be it known that I, Lannenon E. Tornlua,

Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the,f ollowing to be 'a full, clear, and exact description ofthe invention, such as will enable others skilled in 'the art to which itappertains to.

make and use the same. a

The invention relates to'se'wing machines such as are used in the manufacture of boots and shoes, and more particularly to devices and mechanisms for facilitating the removalof a completed shoe and the starting of the seam at the beginning of the sewing opera tion on a sucoeedin shoe.

It has heretofore een pro osed to provide inseam sewing machines wit mechanism for' reversing the cycle of operations 1n stoppmgf the machine at the completion of the sewin so that the needle is retraeted while its hoo is empty to free it from the thread, and is brought to rest in position where it does not interfere with the removal of the shoe or the insertion of the succeeding shoe.

one ob ect of the invention is to rovide novel auo improved mechanism for tius reversing the cycle ofoperationsat the com-- uletion ofwthe sewing which is well adapted for use on high speed machines, and w ioh will operate in auniformly reliable manner, and without undue shock and wear upon the parts. Tothis end one feature of the invention contemplates the provision in an inseam sewing machine of mechanism which is thrown'into operation at the completion of the sewing to ap '1 a friction brake at a certain. point ingtie c cle of o'peratidns of the machine which gra ually retards the forward movement; of the machine, and then drives the machine in a reverse direction to stop ing position at a comparatively slow,

spee' The friction brake acts to absorb the ener due to the forward movement of the machine, and to; gradually and quickly reforward movement without undue strai on the parts, and the reverse driving-m chanism moves the arts back to stoppm position at a speed which, is

- unafiected by-t e forward speed of the .ma-

chine, so that theflp'aits may be brought to rest with uniform accuracy and In a uniscope of the invention,

ceases, they act-as adrivi the cam shaft in a reverse direction until the formly reliable manner. It is preferred .to so construct-the braking and reversing mechamsm. that. the. forward movement of the machine will'be arrested by the brake, although this is not essential to the broader I as the reversal may take place after the braking has sufiiciently reduced the speed of the machineto enable the reversal in be properly" efi'ected. The braking and reverse Idriving and stopping mechamsm maybe of any suitable construction, but for the sake of simplicity it is preferred toso construct the reverse driving mechanism that when ity is thrown into action it will first act as a brake to a'dually arrest the forward movement of t he :ma-- chine, and will then act to drive the machine at a slow speed hack to the desired Istopping 1 point.

.In the simplest and most desirable form of the invention which-has thus far been devised the braking and reverse is effected by a reversely rotating friction clutch member coiiperating with a friction clutch member connected with the cam shaft of the-machine, The clutch members are automatically en 'aged ata predetermined point in the rotation of the cam shaft, and first act as a friction brake which allows a limited forward rotationof the camshaft, and then after the slip between the clutch members clutch to turn clutch is disengaged and the return move-, ment of the camshaft arrested. Inseam se'win machines have also heretofore been rovi ed with devices for severing and 'hol g the welt after the sewin operation has been com leted' and the mac he brought to rest,

vand ave also been provided with devices for determining the length of elt which may be drawn forward by the op grator in bringing the shoe into position for the action of the wait holding and severing devices.

-It is a further object of the present invention to provide novel and improved mechanism for actuatin the (welt severing and holding devices w erehy the welt may be more quickly severed and held and with less manipulation on the part of the operator 0 this 106 than has heretofore been required.

end a further feature of;the invention eontemplates the provision of mechanism which is controlledbut not operated by the opey so i operation the actuatin 20 be readily 125 tion of a welt an 30 a larger scale showing 4b in Fight; certain parts to cooperating therewithg Fig. 9 is a th o 60' and severin tional elevation showing the welt measuring tor for-actuating the welt severing and holding devices to grip and hold the welt. With this construction the'welt' severin and hold- .ing devices are rapidly opera in a uniformly reliable manner without any material exertion on the part of the operator. To further increase the rapidity with which the welt may ;be severed and held, the invention alsocontemplates throwin into mechanism or the welt severing and ho din devices by the drawing forward of the s cc to bring the welt'into osition to be acted upon by the welt severing and holding devices.

5 The invention also includes certain furconstruction and combinations of parts which are hereinafter described and set forth in the claims.

The various features of the invention will understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings and the following detailed description of the mechanism illustrated therein.

In the dra'win ther features of Figl. 3 35 'tion throng the axis of the cam shaft,'the

arts being in the same position indicated 1n Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a horizontal view partly in section with the parts in the. same position; Fi 5 is a view looking toward the left being removed or broken wa'ygj/ Fi 5 isa detail view of the locking boltllatc to be described; 6 is a sectional elevation on line 6-45, ig. 3t with the parts shown in the position which 46 they occupy after the machine has been stopped; F g. 7 is a similar-view showing the position of the parts during the sewing; Fig. 8 is a detail sectional plan view showing the welt measuring devices and the art? etai ugh the shaft for sectional elevation and severing deoperating the welt hol' l v1ees;F1g. 9 is'a'detail p an view of the devices for operatin the welt holding and severing devices; 1g. 10 is a sectional detail of the welt holding and severing devices; F g. 11 is a detail showing theconnection between the welt measunng dance and ,mechanism for operating the welt holding devices; and Fig 12rs-a secdevices. In the drawin the invention is illustrated as embodie in a welt and turn sewing 66 machine such as shown and describedin the 'struction shown,

lication of Andrew Eppler, Serial No.

filed August 8, 1908. This machine is provided with the curved hook needle 1,.

the looper 2, the thread finger 3, the welt guide 4, the back gage 5, and'a feed point and channel guide (not shown), and these devices are operated through suitable connections by camscarried by the cam shaft 6 of the machine. As is usual in this type of machines, the cam shaft makes one revolution foreach cycle of operations performed by the stitch forming and work feeding devices.

During the sewing operation the machine is driven through a belt pulley 7 secured to the end of the cam shaft, and connected by a driving belt 8 with a pulley 9 mounted in the base of the machine. The pulley 9 is connected throughbevel gears 10 with a sleeve 11 mounted on the driving shaft 12 and carrying one member 13 of the main driving clutch. The driving shaft carries the other member 14 of the clutch, and also 'carries the driving pulley 15 through which motion is imparted to the drivin shaft. The engagement of the members of t iie driving clutch is controlled through a treadle 16 connected with the clutch operating wedge 17 WV hen the treadle is depressed, the members of the driving clutch are forced into engagement, and the machine is driven ata speed depending upon the pressure which the operator applies to the treadle. When the treadle is released the clutch members are disengaged, thus disconnecting the cam shaft of the machine from the driving shaft.

The upward movement of the treadle when it is released also throws into operation the mechanism which reverses the cycle of operations of the stitch forming mechanism to cast off the thread from the needle, and which brings the machine to rest with the parts in proper position for the removal of the shoe. This mechanism, in the concomprises a reversely driven friction clutch consisting of the clutch members 18 and 18'. The clutch member 18 is formed on a spiral gear19 which is loosely mounted on the cam shaft 6, and is driven in a direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the cam shaft during the sewing operation by a spiral pinion 20 Sucured to a' shaft 21. The shaft 21 is continuously driven from the driving pulley 15 through a belt 22 passing over a pulley formed on the hub of the gulley 15, and, over a pulley 23 secured to t e shaft 21. The other member 18' of the clutch is formed on a flange 24 projecting from a sleeve 25 which is loosely mounted upon the cam shaft 6. The sleeve 25'is free to s 'de longitudinally on the shaft, but is connected to rotate with theshaft by means of a block 26 secured to the pulley 7 and arranged between lugs 27 mln llLO

projecting radially from the sleeve 25. The I136? sleeve is held normally in position with the clutch members out of engagement by a spring 28 arranged in a recess in the block 26 and interposed between the bottom of the recess and the head of a bolt which carries a plate 29 engaging the lugs 27. The normal osition of the clutch sleeve is determined y an adjustable stop screw 30 which may be adjusted to maintain the clutch sleeve in proper relation to the clutch member.

When the clutch members 18 and 18 are engaged, they act as a friction brake to absorb the energy due' to the momentum of the cam shaft, and after the forward movement of the shaft has ceased the clutch acts to turn the cam shaft in a reverse direction at a compiirative'ly slow speed until the clutch is disengaged, when the cam shaft is brought to rest with the needle and other parts of the stitch forming mechanism in the proper position for the removal of the shoe. The mechanism for engaging and disengaging the clutch at the proper times in the rotation of the cam shaft comprises a cam groove 31 formed in the sleeve 25 and engaged by a roll on one arm of a bell crank lever 32. The other end of the hell crank lever is provided with a hole 33 adapted to receive a locking pin 34 which is normally held out of engagement u h the lever, so that during the normal running of the machine the lever is oscillated idly by the cam. The locking pin is mounted in the end of a slide 35 which is held in normal position by a spring 36. The spring surrounds a bolt 37 extending from the rear end of the slide, and is interposed between a shoulder on the slide and the inner end of an adjustable screw threaded sleeve 38. The bolt 37 carries a nut 39 which engages the outer end of the sleeve and holds the spring under pression. By adjusting the nut the compression of the spring may be varied, and by adjusting the sleeve 38 the slide may be adjusted to bring the locking pin into proper register with the hole in the end of the lever 33. The locking pin is forced in a direction to engage it with the bell crank lever by a spring 40, and the lower end of the pin is connected with the treadle 16 so that the pin is held down out of engagement with the bell crank lever so l'on as the treadle is depressed and the main driving clutch is acting to drive the cam shaft of the machine. A latch 41 is also connected with the lower end of the locking bolt, and is arranged to engage a shoulder 42 on the slide 35, and hold the locking bolt in its lower position 'until the treadle has been raised sufficiently to allow the locking bolt to engage the bell crank lever. In the construction shown, the latch 41 is loosely pivoted on a rock shaft 43, and is connected with the shaft by a pin 44 projecting through a slot in the hub of the latch (Figs. 4, 5 and 5). The rock shaft COIH- 43 is mounted in a block 45 secured on the lower end of the locking bolt, and carries an arm 46 which is connected by a link 47 with the treadle 16. \Vhen the treadle is depressed the rock shaft 43 turns until the latch 41 brings up against the slide 35, and then during the continued downward movement of the treadle the locking bolt is drawn down against the tension of its spring. This carries the latch 41 under the shoulder 42. When the treadle is released the latch 41 prevents the upward movement of the locking pin, and therock shaft 43 is rocked until the pin 44 strikes the end of the slot in the hub of the latch and swings the latch outward. thus disengaging it from the shoulder 42. lVhen this takes place the spring forces the pin upward against the under side of the bell crank lever, and when the hole in the lever registers with the pin the pin snaps up into the hole, thus connecting the lever with the slide 35.

The cam 31 is so timed that the hole in the end of the bell crank lever is brought into position to register with the locking pin at the proper time in the cycle of operations of the stitch forming mechanism. pin is engaged with the bell crank-lever the lever is held from movement about its pivot, and the cam 31 acting on the roll carried by the lever, shifts the clutch sleeve 25 to bring the members of the reversing clutch into engagemei'rt. When the lever and slide 35 are locked together by the locking pin, the movement of the lever is resisted by the spring 36, and the force with which the members of the friction clutch are depend upon the compression of the spring. This may be adjusted to secure the desired braking effect between the members of the friction clutch so that the forward rotation of the cam shaft will be arrested within the desired part of a revolution. In the con struction shown, the parts are so timed and controlled that the locking bolt is engaged with the lever and the friction clutch engaged while the needle is retracted, and just before it begins its advance movement, and the forward rotation of the cam shaft is arrested after the needle has advanced and entered the work. The clutch then acts to turn the cam shaft in a reverse direction at a slow speed until the shaft arrives at the point where the cam 31 acted to engage the members of the clutch, when the reversely moving cam acts to again disengage the clutch members. The cam shaft is therefore brought to rest with the needle in its retracted position, and the other parts of the stitch forming mechanism in such position that they do not interfere with the removal of the shoe. The reversal of the cycle of operations after the needle has penetrated the stock causes the needle to be retracted without a loop of thread in its hook, and

lVhcn the i pressed together will the Pain shaft in a consequently the last loop drawn by the neodle is east oil so that the needle is aiitoniatirally freed rein the thread.

ll lien the reversing clutch is disengaged the reverse movement oil the cam shaft may I rest with the. needle free from the thread, and the stitch forming devices in position i for the removal of the shoe, the welt is severed and the severed end of the welt held in position for attachment to a shoe at the behe finally stopped by a friction brake on l ginning of the next sewing operation. The plied to one of the cam disks on the shaft, or y devices for severin and lidlding the welt, in by a positive stop, or both means may bel the construction 5 own, comprise the welt employed, in which case the positive stop l gi'ippin jaws 54 and 55 and the welt severacts as a safety device to prevent any acciiiig lrni e 56 which are held in retracted p0 denial Mei-running of the cam shaft. In l sition during the sewing of the sheer, and are the construction shown, both devices are eiiiadvanced. to sever and hold the welt after ployed. As shown, the stop comprises a stop the sewing operation has been completed arni secured to a rock shaft is and hav l and the machine brought to rest. The Well; ing its end arranged to be moved into and holding jaws are carried upon the front end. out oi the iaili of a. sio; shoulder 50 on a of a bar 57 mounted to slide in a carrier disk 51 which is securec to the cam shaft. arm 58 which is in turn mounted to swing The rock shaft. -19 is the shaft which is a.c-- about a vertical shaft 59. The shaft 59 is routed bv the reversal of the rain shaft to mounted in a bearing in a fixed bracket 60, throw on the thread tension in the machine and the carrier arm 58 is held in normal noof the l lpplcr application above referred to. sition against a stop 61 by a spring The This shalt carries an upwardly projecting l upper jaw 5 is fixed on the end of the bar arm 5;. to the upper end of which is piv- 57, while the lower jaw is pivotally snpotally connected the actuating lever 53. The l ported onl the bar by an eccentric pivot 63 front end of the lever is provided with two which ma be turned to adjust the jaw 55 segmental surfaces, ilic upper one of which with relation to the jaw y The bar 57 is rims against a sleeve on the cam shaft durecessed to Orin a guide for the knife caring the forward rotation of the cam shalt, ryiiig bar (i l, to the forward end of which as indicated in Fig. T. With the lever in the knife 56 is secured. The knife carrying this position. the stop is is out of the. path er is provided at its forward end wiih a of the slil'iiilih'l' in). When the rotation of cam surface 65 arranged to engage the rear the earn shall. is r1.- verscd, a notch in the end of the pivoted jaw 55 and close the well: sleeve acts on the lever 53 and rocks it into h lding jaws. The rear end of the jaw 55 is the po iiiiiii inillodeil in Fig. (3, thus rocking sl tted to form a spring arm so that the jaw the shaft iii to throw oil the thread tension, may yield to accommodate itself to variaaiid also to bring ihc stop arm 48 into the tions in the thickness of the welt.

lltllli of ihe shoulder 50. The friction brake The gripper carrying bar 57 is advanced [or tripping or assistin in stopping the reand retracted through a gear segment (ill Tijl'st routine of i caiii shaft is indicated secured to the shaft 59 and engaging. a rack at is" and is connected to the arin 553 so that fol-med on the bar. The cotter carrying bar the rod; "L111 it 4% applies the brake. well as is independently reeiprocatcd by a pinion (l? o iw'ati I to living the stop arm elf) into the i a FflClC ll in gin; hudde 5.4L Nit-h this can iiirinedon the bar. The sliaitoil is oscillated sti'nctioii the fri tional engagement of the members oi the re ersing clutch acts to gradually arr the forward rotathin of the rain shaft ivitiioiit undue shock or jar. and still allows siilliirii-iit forward movement of the iiccdle to tree the loop of thread carried thereby iIUlIl the hook of the needle. Jifter the needle has been t as advanced. and the forward rotation of the rain shaft arrested, the reversing cluteli'operates to turn reverse comparatively slow and at a uniform speed, which is unall'eciecl by the speed of the ma chine at the time the main driving clutch is disengaged. Theinachineistiiore ore finally brought to rest when moving at a uniformly slow speed, thus avoiding nndne shock or jar, and insuring eration of the reversing and stopping mechanism.

After the sewing operation has been complcted, and the machine has been brought to direction at a a reliable and nniforrn opto advance and retract the welt holding laws and cutter through. a gear segment 68 engaging: a pinion formed on the ripper end. of the shaft. The gear segment is secured to a incl-r shaft 69 which is automatically actnated at proper times through an arm 70 secured to the end of the shaft and conl secured to the shaft 59 and engaging l l nccted with a strap Tl which surrounds and operated by an intermittently .opera ing eccentric 72. The eccentric 72 is formed on a sleeve i3 mounted to turn fi-eely'about the hub of the continuously rotating spiral gear 1%). The eccentric is intermittently rotated through a half revolution by means of a roll clutch ai'lapted to intermittently connect the eccentric carrying sleeve with the spiral gear. As shown, this clutch comprises one 1 or more rolls 7 1 interposed between flat surlaces 75 on the eccentric carrying sleeve, and l a surrounding wear ring 76 carried by the The rolls are controlled by a i roll carrying ring ing lngs 78 between which the rolls are located. A spring 79 connects the eccentric 80 is raised to release the roll re vol carrying sleeve and roll carrying ring, and tends to move the ring in a direction to wedge the rolls between the flat surfaces on the sleeve and the wear ring to engage the clutch. Spring latching pins 79 hold the sleeve 73 against backward movement. The roll carrying ring is held in position to hold the rolls out of action by one or the other of two latches S0 and 81 which are adapted to engage a stop dog 82 carried by the ring. During the operation of the machine in sewing, the dog 82 isin engagement with the latch 80, as indicated in Fig. 7. When the parts are in this position the eccentric 72 and the connected gear segment 68 are in position to hold the gripper carrying bar and knife carrying bar in the retracted position indicated in Fig. 7. hen the parts are in this position, the lower jaw is held n open position by the engagement of the rear end of the jaw with a cam lug 83, and the jaws are in position where they do not interfere with the manipulation of the shoe during the sewing operation.

After the sewing operation has been completed and the welt is to be severed, the latch carrying ring of the actuating clutch. This throws the clutch into action, and the eccentric carrying sleeve is rotated through a half revolution and until the dog 82 engages the latch 81, thus disengaging the clutch. This half ution of the eccentric rocks the gear segment 68 from the position indicated in Fig. 7 to the position indicated in Fig. 6, and turns the shaft 59 in a direction to ad.- vance the welt gripper and cutter bars. The bars move forward in unison until the jaws of thewelt holder have passed on opposite sides of the welt, and the guard 84 on the lo'werjaw has engaged the inner edge of the welt. When the gripper bar reaches this position the teeth of the gear segment 66 pass from engagement with the teeth of the rack on the bar, and the bar is held locked in position by the-engagement of a locking segment 85 formed on the gear with a locking segment 86 formed on the bar. Durin the continued movement of the shaft 59 the gear 67 continues to advance the cutter bar. During the first part of'the advance movement of the cutter bar with relation to the gripper bar the cam on the cutter bar closes the welt holding jaws, and during the continued forward movement of the cutter bar the knife 56 acts to sever the welt. The parts are now in the position indicated in Figs. 3 and 4, with the welt holding jaws firmly gripping the severed end of the welt supply beyond the welt guide, and holding it in proper position for attachment to 5b sewing operation. The parts remain in this a shoe at the beginning of the ne'zt,

position until the machine is started at the beginning of the sewing operation on the succeeding shoe. At the beginning of the sewing operation on the next shoe, the welt holding aws continue to hold the end of the welt until afterthe welt guide has been withdrawn from the shoe, and until the initial feed ,of the shoe has been completed, and during the feed of the shoe the arm carrying the cutter and gripper bars is swung about the shaft 59 so that the welt holding jaws move forward with the shoe and hold the end of the welt in proper relation to the shoe, and also draw the welt through the welt guide so that all danger of displacement of the welt is avoided. In the construction shown, the carrier for the welt. holding jaws is actuated to move the jaws with the shoe during the initial feed through connection with the feed slide which carries the awl and channel guide. As shown, this connection comprises a bar 8'? one end of which is adjustably secured to the feed slide through a split bearing and clamping bolt 88 (Fig. 7), and the other end of which is provided with a depending finger 89 arranged to cooperate with a yielding dog 90 carried by the gripper bar 57. The dog 90 is pivoted on the gripper bar and is held normally in raised position by a spring. This yielding dog is provided in order that the welt holder may not be moved in the direction of the feed by the slight forward movement of the feed slide which occurs upon starting the machine prior to the initial forward stroke of the needle.

lVhen the machine is brought to rest the feed slide is usually in such position that it will move forward slightly when the machine is started. \Vith the feed slide in this position the finger 89 is in the path of the dog 90 when the gripper carrying bars advance to bring the jaws of the welt holder into position to grip the welt, and the dog yields and rides under the end of the finger, as indicated in Fig. 2. When the machine is started the finger still rides on the top of the dog 90 when the feed slide is given its slight forward movement, but on the return movement of the feed slide preparatory to the initial feedof the shoe the finger 89 passes to the right of the dog 90, so that the dog snaps up into position in front of the finger. Now during the advance movement of the feed slide in giving the initial feed to the shoe, the finger 89 bears against the right-hand side of the dog 90 and swings the arm 58 about the shaft 59, so that the Welt holding aws move with the shoe during its initial feed. As the initial feed of the shoe is completed the latch 81 whic holds the actuating clutch for the welt holder and cutter out 0 operation is operated to release the roll carrying ring and thus throw the clutch into operation. The latch 81 is thus operated by can: groove. 91 formed in the face of the cam disk 51 and engaging roli on. the end of an arm 9'2. which is secured to the rock shaft 93 carrying the latch. When the latch S1 is thus operated to engage the actuating clutch, the clutch and eccentric are rotated through a half revolution and until the dog 82 engages the latch 80 and throws the clutch out of operation. This semi-rotation of the eccentric rocks the gear segment 68 from the position indicated in Fig. 6 to the position indicated in Fig. 7, l thus operating the shaft 59 to retract the gripper bar and knife bar. During the ro tation of the shaft 59 the gear 67 first retracts the cutter bar independently of the gripper bar, and then the cutter and gripper bars are moved in unison to their rearward position. The movement of the cutter bar with relation to the gripper bancanses the cam (15 to release the gripper jaw 55 so that it may swing away from the welt,and during the return movement of the gripper bar the rear end of the jaw rides up the lug 83, so that the jaw is posit vely opened. The return movement of the gripper bar also withdraws thedog 90 from engagement with the finger 89 so that the carrier arm 58 is returned to normal position against the stop 61 by the spring 62. This brings the parts into their normal position where they re main during the completion of the sewing operation and until the gripper and cutter bars are to be again advanced to sever and hold the welt. In order that the dog 82 may not interfere with the return movement of the latch 81, in case the latch is swung forward before the dog has completely passed from under it, the dog is yieldingly mounted in the roll carrying ring as indicated in Figs. 6 and 7.

The latch 80 which throws the actuating clutch into operation to advance the welt holder and cutter to sever and hold the welt. may be actuated by any suitable devices under the control of the operator. To relieve the operator of additional. manipulations, and to increase the rapidity with which the shoe may he freed and removed, it is preferred, however, to control the latch by the forward movement of the shoe in bringing the welt into proper position for the opera.- tinn thereon of the cutting and holding devices. In order that the welt may be severed at a suitable distance from the end of a completed seam without waste of welting, devices are provided for determining the Eh" tent to which the welt may be advanced or pulled through the welt guide in withdrawmg the shoe preparatory to the operation of the welt severing and holding devices. For the sake of simplicity, these devices are connected with the clutch controlling latch 80 so that their movement when the welt is drawn forward raises the latch and thus throws the actuating mechanism for the \velt cutter and holder into operation. In the construction shown the devices for determining or limiting the forward movement of the welt are rendered active or thrown into operation by the reverse movement imparted to the cam shaft of the machine in freeing the needle from the loop and bringing the parts into position for the removal of the shoe, and are rendered inactive by the forward movement of the cam shaft at the beginning of the next sewing operation. The devices are thus rendered active at the proper time without any attention on the part of the operator, and are inactive during the normal operation of the machine.

As shown, the welt \V is led to the Welt guide over a guide pulley 94 which is mounted to turn freely on a controlling or measuring shaft 95 which carries a clamping jaw 96 adapted to engage and clamp the welt against the pulley 94. The clamping jaw is carried in one arm of a bell crank lever 97, the other arm of which is arranged to be engaged by the end of a plunger 98 mounted within the shaft 95. The clamp 1S held normally out of engagement with the welt by a. spring 99. The movement of the measuring shaft is limited by a stop pin 100 arranged to enter a slot 101 formed in 95 an arm 102 secured to the rear end of the shaft. An adjusting stop screw 103 is mounted in the arm in position to engage the stop pin, and by adjusting this screw the extent to which the measuring shaft may be turned may be varied. The clamp actuating plunger 98 is formed in two sections separated. by a spring 104 which may yield as the plunger is advanced in forcing the clamp against the well; to accommodate variations in the thickness of the Welt. The rear end of the plunger is engaged by a cam shoe 105 adjustably secured to one arnrlOG of a bell crank lever, the other arm 107 of which is arranged to engage and be operated by the arm 52 when this arm is rocked by the reverse movement of the cam shaft at the completion of the sewing operation. hen the hell crank lever 107 106 is thus rocked at the completiori of the sewing operation, the cam shoe 105 forces the plunger 98 forward so that the clamp 96 is engaged with the welt. Now when the shoe is drawn forward to draw the welt through the welt guide, the measuring shaft is rotated until the end of the slot 101 brings up against the stop pin 100, when -further advance movement of the welt is prevented. The length of the slot 101 therefore determines the extent to which the welt may be drawn forward in removing the shoe and bringing the welt into proper po-' sition for the operation ofythe'welt serving and holding devices. The rotation of the shaft 95 by the forward movement. of the welt also raises the latch 80 and throws the actuating devices for the welt severing and holding mechanism into operation. The connections through which the latch is raised consists of a link 108 connecting the end of the arm 102 with an arm 109 secured; to the rock shaft 110 which carries thei latch 80. 3

\Vhen the machine is started at the begin-; ning of the sewing operation upon the next shoe, the arm 52 moves toward the right in Fig. 6, rocking the shaft 49 in the man-; ner already described. iVhen this move-j ment of the arm and rock shaft takes place,; the rock shaft 110 is actuated to bring the; latch 80 down into the path of the dog 82,, and to also rock the measuring shaft 95 to, return the measuring shaft to its normal; position indicated in Fig. 11. This movement of the arm 52 also releases the bell? crank lever 107-106 so that the spring 99, may disengage the clamp 96 from the Welt; The connection throu h which the rock; shaft 110 is actuated from the rock shaft -19 consists of a link 111 connecting the latch: arm 48 with an arm 112 secured to the shaft! 110. The up or end of the link 111 slidesf freely througi a hole in the arm 112 and) is provided with nuts 113. When the shaft; 49 is rocked by the reverse rotation of thef cam shaft at the completion of the sewing operation, the link 111 slides idly up? through the arm 112 so that the shaft 110 is free to be rocked by the forward move-, ment of the welt in the manner above de-? scribed. hen the shaft 49 is rocked in thel opposite direction at the beginning of the! next sewing operation, the nuts 113 engage? the arm 112 and rock the shaft 110 in a di-? rection to bring the latch 80 into the path of the dog 82, and to return the welt measuring device to normal position,'1n whichl position it will be locked against forward rotation so long as the cam shaft rotates forwardly (and until the shaft 49 is again rocked, as above described, at the comple-! tion of the sewing operation by reason off the continued en agement o nut 113 with the arm 112. It ollows, therefore, that any tendency of the shaft 95 and its connected, parts to rotate and thereby to raise the latch 80 out of engagement with dog 82, thus, causing the welt severing and holding mech-} anism to be thrown into operation, is re-,' sisted by the nuts 113 throughout the en-; tire sewing operation. h'us, if, during thesewing of a shoe and the rogressive for-T wa rd travel of the welt W, a portion of the welt which at the time is passing between guide pulley 94 and clamping jaw 96 is twistedoh is thicker than normal, or if any other condition exists as aresult of which the forward pull on the welt tends to effect the rotation in a forwarddirection of the pulley, jaw and shaft 95, such rotation is nected to the shoe by the prevented by therewith. the Welt severing and holding mechan sm in retracted position while the shoe is being sewn after the welt has been properely secured thereby, and constitute one form of means for preventing the operation of the welt severing or welt severing and holding devices during the sewing operation.

By the devices and mechanisms referred to the time consumed in removing a finished shoe and presenting another shoe to the machine is reducecLto a minimum, tfiid the capacity of the machine thus increased. No manipulation of the machine by the operator, aside from releasing the treadle, is renuts 113 and parts connected 1 These devices thus maintain quired in order to free the needle from the thread and bring the parts into proper position for the removal of the shoe, or to throw the welt severing and holding devices into operation. After the machine 1215 been reversed and stopped by the'reverse driving and stopping mechanism, the operator merely draws the shoe forward to withdraw the welt slightly from the welt guide, and in so doing throws into operation the welt severing and holding devices, which imme diately sever the welt from the slice and hold the end of the welt supply in position to be attached to the succeeding shoe. This frees the shoe from the welt, so that the operator may carry the shoe upward to engage the thread leading from the shoe to the thread supply with a thread severing and holding device indicated at 114 in Fig. 1, thus completely freeing the shoe from the machine. In beginning the sewing operation upon the succeeding sho the operator merely places the shoe in roper'position with relation to the stitch fhrming devices and depresses the treadle, the starting of the machine causing the welt measuring devices and the welt severing and holding devices to be returned to normal position after the end of the welt has been properly constitch forming mechanism.

While the main features of the invention are particularly applicable to a sewing machine for connecting the welt and .upper to the insole of a Welt shoe, has been shown and described as embodied in such a machine, it will be understood that certain features of the invention are not limited in their application to such a machine, but ,may be embodied with advantage in various shoe sewing or other machines. It will also be understood that the specific construction and arrangement of the parts shown and described is not essential. to the broader features of the invention, and maybe varied or modified without departtherefrom.

in ilaving explained the nature of and objact of the invention, and specificallwi deand the invention scribed one form of machine in which it may he embodied, what I claim i':

1. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices and mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising brain ing means for retarding the forward movement of the machine, and slow speed reverse driving means for returning the machine to stopping position, substantially as described.

2. A sewing machine, having, in combinarion, stitch forming devices and mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising means for absorbing the energy due to the forward movement of the machine and returning the machine to stopping position at a redetermined slow speed, substantially as vescribed.

3. A. sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices and mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising means for reducing the speed of the machine and means or thereafter driving the machine in a reverse direction to stopping position at a uniform slow speed, substantially as described.

4. A sewing machine, having, in com'bina tion, stitch forming devices and mechanism for reversing the. cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising reverse driving mechanism constructed to first actas a friction brake to gradually arrest the forward movement of the machine and to then drive the machine at a slow speed hack to its stopping point, substantially as de scribed.

5. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices and mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising a reversing triction clutch and means for engaging the clutch at a predetermined point in the cycle of operations of the machine and for disengaging it at a predetermined point in the reverse movement of the machine, substantially as described,

6. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices and. mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising reverse driving mechanism having provision for fri tionally resisting the forward movement of the machine when thrown into operation, and means for throwing the reverse driving mechanism out of operation and stopping the machine at a predetermined point in its reverse movement, substantially as described.

T. A sewing machine, having, in combination. stitch forming device's and mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine comprising reverse driving mechanism having provision for f jctionally resisting the forward movement f the machine when thrown into operation,

and means for throwing said reverse driving mechanisn'i into operation at a predetermined point in the cycle of operations of the machine, substantially as described.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combina- 7 tion, stitch forming devices, driving mecha nism therefor, a braking and reversing driving mechanism, means for throwing said brakinn and reverse driving n'iechanism into and out of operation including a timing cam, and means for rendering said cam active when the main driving mechanism is thrown out of operation, substantially as described.

9 A sewing machine, having, in combina tion, stitch forn'iing devices driving mecha- 3 nism therefor, a braking and reverse driving mechanism, means for throwin said braking and reverse driving mechanism into and out of operation including a timing cam and a normally inactive actuating lever, and 35 means for rendering said lever and cam active when the main driving mechanism is thrown out of operation, substantially as described.

10. n, sewing machine, having, in com hination, stitch forming devices, driving mechanism therefor, a braking and reverse driving mechanism, means for throwing said braking and reverse driving mechanism into action when the main driving mechanism is thrown out, and means for throwing it out of action and stopping the machine at a predetermined point, substantially as described.

11. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a cam shaft from which they are actuated, a driving clutch, reversely driven slow speed friction clutch, devices driven from the cam shaft for engaging and. disengaging the low speed clutch, and means for rendering said latter devices active when the driving clutch is thrown out in stopping the machine, substantially as described.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a cam shaft from which they are actuated, driving mechanism including a starting ahd stopping treadle, a reversin clutch comprising a friction clutch mem'er connected to rotate with the cam shaft, a cam driven by the clutch member, an actuating lever operated by the cam, and a locking pin operated by the treadle for rendering the lever and cam active to shift the clutch member when the treadle is actuated to stop the machine, substantially as described.

13. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severing and holding devices, and power driven mechanism eontrtilled by the open atorfor actuating said devices to saver and hold the welt, substantially as described.

14-. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechani and mechanism for severing and holding the welt and means for throwing the severing and holding mechanism into operation by' a movement of the shoe after the completion of the sewing, substantially as described.

17. A sewing machine, having, in com- .bination, stitch forming mechanism and mechanism for severing and holding the welt and means for throwing the severing and holding mechanism into operation by a forward pull on the welt after the completion of the sewing, substantially as described.

18. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, means for limiting the withdrawal of the welt upon the removal of the shoe, and devices thrown into operation by the weltlimiting means for severing the welt, substantially as described.

19. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, means for limiting the withdrawal of the welt upon the removal of the shoe, and devices thrown into operation by the welt limiting means for severing and holding the welt, substantially as described.

20. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine, means rendered active by the reversal of themachine for limiting the withdrawal of the welt upon the removal of the work, and means controlled by the withdrawal of the welt for severing and holding the welt, substantially as described.

21. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt measuring device mounted for limited movement with the welt, adjusting means for determining the movement of the device with the welt, and means for connecting the device with the welt at the completion of the sewing and for disconnecti it from the welt and returning it to initlal position at the beginning of the sewing, substantially as described.

22. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severing and holding devices, an intermittently operating clutch for alternately ac tuating and withdrawing said devices, a welt measuring device connected to throw the clutch into operation to actuate the welt holding and severing devices, and a cam for throwing the clutch into operation to withdraw the welt holdin 'and severing devices, substantially as'descnbed.

23. A sewing machine, having, -in combination, stitch f rming mechanism, welt severing and holdingdevices, an intermittently operating clutch for alternately actuating and withdrawing said devices, awelt measuring device having a limited move ment with the welt upon the removal of the work, a clutch controlling latch connected to the measuringdevice, and a clutchcon trolling latch o erated upon the starting of the machine, su stantially as described.

24. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, mechanism for reversing the cycle of operations upon stopping the machine, welt severing and holding devices,-a welt measuring device having a limited movement with the welt upon the removal of the worlc'and engaged with the welt by the reversal of the machine, an intermittentl operating clutch for actuating and with rawing the welt severing and holding devices, a clutch controlling latch connected with the welt measuring device,and a clutch controlling latch operated u on the 'starting of the machine,

substantial y as described.

25. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch formin mechanism, actuating mechanism there or including a cam shaft, a stop pawl arranged to arrest the backward rotation of the cam shaft at a predetermined point, and means for holding the pawl in inactive position during the forward running of the machine and means for moving it into active position by ,the ro versal of the cam shaft. 26. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severin devices, actuating mechsllnism therefor, and mechanism rendered 'o erable upon the completion of the sewing or throwing. the actuating mechanism of the welt severin'g devices into operation.

27. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, welt severin and holdin devices, actuatin mechanism for the we t severing and hol in devices, and mechanism rendered operable upon the completion ofthe sewing for throwing the actuating mechanism into operation.

28. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for severin the welt, actuating mechanism for the we t severin 'devices, and mechanism rendered operab e at the completion of the sewing for throwing the actuating weltisevering'; and

mechanism into operation by a pull on the welt.

29. A sewing machine, having, in eombi nation, stitch forming mechanism,

severing devices, actuatin mechanism for the welt severing devices, ing the actuating mechanism into operation, and means jor preventing the operation of said devicesduring the sewing and for rendering them operable upon the completion of the sewing.

30. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices for severing the welt, and means for preventing the operation of the welt severing devices during the sewing. A

V 31. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices ,-'--for severing and holding the welt, and

2 means for preventing the operation of the holding devices during the sewing.

32. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, devices welt evices for throw for severin the welt, actuating mechanism for the we t severing devices, mechanism rendered operative upon the completion of the sewing for throwing the actuating mech-' anism into 0 eration by a pull on the-welt, and means or preventing the throwing in of the actuating mechanism during the sewing.

33. A sewing machine, havlng incombination, stitch forming mechanism,ldevi'ces for severin the welt, actuating mechanism for the we t severin devices, and means rendered inactive by t e reversal of the machine for preventing the operation of the welt severing devices during the sewing. 34:. A sewmg'm'achine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt severing device, and actuating means for said device, the operation of which .is dependent upon the reversal of the machine.

LAURENCE E. TOPHAMQ Witnesses: A

.Crms'rsn E. Rooms, Lss'ma A.Hown.

I Copies otthis patent mavbe obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner 0! Patents,

' Washington, D. C.

Corrections ln Letters Patent Np. 1,099,326.

It'is her'eby eertified chm-1 13am pm No 1,oe s,a2's,, mtga June 9,

1914:, upon the ,upplioation 9f Laurence E. Topham, of Beverlyfi 'Massachusett s, for

m imiirovgn mnt ih Sewin g-Mdghines, er rors appear in ithe printd specificafiqp i'bquiril xg cpl-motion a5 'follows: Page line 59, for tHe wogd f w han" read .paga 6; line 128'. for the word serving 'read uverifiqf and that the said Lo thera Patent should be read withihese corrections therein that @he same may com "1 m; to the record of the in the Patnt Oflie.

Signqd nndaealed this 4th day of August; A. D., 1914.

' J. T. NEWTON,

Acfingwmmt'uionef of Patenta.

' aml 

